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What's the difference
between Rally I and II wheels?
What can I do to stop the
shaking and wandering of my car?
What is that sticky spot
developing in my steering?
What determined whether a Camaro
got mono- or multi-leaf springs?
What do I need to convert
my front drums to disc brakes?
What's
the difference between Rally I and II wheels?
The
Rally I wheel is vastly different from the Rally II wheel. The
Rally I wheel is patterned after a slotted mag with 5
oval slots much like the Chevy styled wheel. The difference between the Chevy
wheel and the Pontiac wheel is that the slots are fluted at the slot and the
Chevy's are flat. Also the slots are larger. This wheel also has large center
cap that includes 5 holes for the lug nuts. The Rally
I wheel came in one size
only, 14". These wheels were available on Tempests, Lemans's
GTOs, and
Firebirds from 1965 to 1968. The only difference between years is in 1965 the
center cap is completely chromed; all other years the cap has black center with
a chromed edge.
The
Rally II wheel was available beginning in 1968
on Pontiac A-bodies (GTO, etc.) and F-Bodies (and later on larger Pontiacs).
These wheels are the five spoke pattern with a small center cap with
"PMD"
(Pontiac Motor Division) written on them. There are many differences to these
wheels. Trim rings, center caps, lug nuts, rims sizes, widths, and offsets were
all changed at one time or another.
The
Rally I wheels are valuable to A-Body people
especially 1965, if they are complete and in good condition.
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What can I do to stop
the shaking and wandering of my car?
One or a combination of these should help the
problem:
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Balance the tires/wheels
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Align the front end (caster/camber/toe)
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Replace the upper control arm bushings
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Replace the shocks
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Replace the rear leaf spring bushings
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Replace the rear leaf springs
-
Replace the front wheel bearings
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Tighten the steering box bolts
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Replace the subframe body mount bushings
-
Install a set of sub-frame connectors
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What is that sticky
spot developing in my steering?
The first place to look may be under the car. If it
is in one spot, it correlates to the actual position of the parts, (if it was at
random it might have been the power starting pump for instance). You have a
steering pitman arm on the steering gear box, and an
idler arm on the other
side. They are joined by a rod, which then has little extensions that move the
spindles (wheel supports) back and forth. A binding in any of the joints could
cause that effect. The idler arm may have a sticky joint or the joint where
the spindles are turned could be sticking. It could also be a problem with the
sector gear in the steering box.
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What determined
whether a Camaro got mono- or multileaf springs?
All 1967's were monoleaf, however there are various
ratings of these. See the beginning of your assembly manual for these. 1968 and
1969 are the most elusive as there's no hardcore evidence showing why one or
the other was used, but based on some documentation and experience, here's what
is known so far. The 1968's were determined not only by horsepower, but also by
the transmission. A 1968 with a 275hp 327ci engine and a powerglide tranny got
monoleaf, but the same car in a 4-speed came with multileaf and rear bumper
guards to denote the special rear suspension. Unless car was ordered with the
guards, then it had them anyway. The 1969's that had the 327ci or 210hp 350ci
2bbl engines all got monoleaf. 1968 and 1969's with the TOURQUE-DRIVE all had
monoleafs. All 6 cylinder cars for all 3 years, came with monoleafs.
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What do I need to
convert my front drums to disc brakes?
This is one of the best mods you can do to your car.
Factory parts are your best bet (unless your shooting for a custom looking
setup). Even junkyard special parts work top-notch once cleaned up. The
following list of parts will give you the best performance for cost and
reliability:
-
Two new GM 1969 spindles (still available from GM)
or 1969 - 1974 Nova units for SPC Camaro (or original units if you can find
them)
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Two junkyard caliper brackets from a 1968 - 1978
midsize GM car using a corporate front wheel disc setup
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Two Nova or Cutlass (corporate) calipers for cores
from the local parts store - eat the core charge (if low) to save
searching the
junkyard
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One new/rebuilt master cylinder (don't use
junkyard units for this) for 1969 SPC Camaro (or for 1969 - 1972 Nova with
front disks for places that charge extra when they hear the word Camaro or
Firebird)
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One set of first gen (or Nova) lines, hardware,
and adjustable P-valve
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One powerboster either new or from almost any late
'60s to mid '70s GM
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Two rotors - 1969 SPC Camaro or 1969 - 1972 Nova
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One alignment after
swapping
If you keep your eyes peeled, and piece it together,
you can probably do the swap for about $100.
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